Mudhole Outdoors

The Arizona Trail – Passages 13-15 – Oracle, Black Hills & Tortilla Mountains

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Dates:  February 13-16, 2018

Distance:  67.9 miles

My third section hike of the Arizona Trail was through passages 13-15.  This 4-day hike starts at the American Flag trailhead outside of Oracle, AZ and finished at the end of passage 15 at the Gila River just north of Kearny, AZ.

This adventure on the Arizona Trail was one full of learning new things about myself, and also continuing to try out new experiences, techniques and gear. My new hiking friend Dana Law was kind enough to have me tag along on what was originally planned to be an 8-day 102 mile hike through 5 passages of the Arizona Trail. Things don’t always go quite as planned…

The night before our hike, Dana and I stayed at the Chalet Village Motel in Oracle, owned and operated by the wonderful trail angel Marney. Marney also had arranged a ride to the American Flag trailhead for us the next morning and had also confirmed that water was staged for us at the Tiger Mine trailhead at the start of passage 14.

Day 1 – February 13, 2018

Distance: 18.3 miles

We set off from Oracle, AZ to start passage 13 on Tuesday morning at first light. Our plan was to complete 13 and do a good chunk of the first part of passage 14. We set our goals for 16 miles and ended up camping after 18.3 miles thanks to Dana’s very positive attitude throughout the day which helped me to push more miles than I’m normally comfortable especially with a full pack. This day was sunny and comfortable, but we knew that the weather was going to turn on us during the next 24+ hours of the trip. Our camp was flat and rock-free, the weather was calm with a glorious sunset, and we both got good sleep.

Day 2 – February 14, 2018

Distance: 15.0 miles

This day brought us through most of the remainder of passage 14. The beginning half of passage 14 really is a bleak section of unattractive and overgrazed desert unfortunately. We encountered light rainshowers just as we reached Beehive Well mid-day, our first reliable water source and our lunch stop. I was dealing with a forming blister on the ball of my right foot, so I had to cut it open and tape it up to be able to continue. Soggy shoes and lots of downhill to Beehive were the demise of my feet that day. The tank and cattle trough were both full of algae-ridden water filled with hundreds of dead bees, and the larger tank had at least one dead bird in it. There was a small old building next to the windmill by the tanks, and inside of the building we spotted a giant crab spider, which I have never seen before. I brought out a new prefilter for water such as what was in the trough, attempting to help clarify some of the yuck out of these less-desirable water sources, however the connection on my homemade prefilter failed/leaked and we had to set it aside. Out came the Sawyer filters and we took only the water we needed as we continued on through the rain. We reached camp just 4 miles short of the start of passage 15 at Freeman Road and set up camp just before the heavier rain started. It rained constantly all night long, but we did end up getting 2 extra miles on today as well. Surprisingly, both of us got sufficient sleep that night.

Day 3 – February 15, 2018

Distance: 18.7 miles

Today started off with a wet morning and stayed rainy all day long.  Needless to say, I didn’t stop for too many pictures on this one because we had some ground to cover in slippery and miserable conditions. This was the first time that Dana and I have ever had to break camp in a steady rain while on a backpacking trip. We did surprisingly well with getting our packs loaded up in our own small tents, saving the take-down of our tents for last before we headed out for the day. We crossed Freeman Road and loaded up on cached water from the resupply box at the trailhead for passage 15, met with 2 wet hikers Half Ration and Greenpeace, and pushed on to get as many miles as we could for the day. Being that the rain had been falling for over 24 hours straight, the trail conditions that day were quite miserable. Soggy shoes, nonstop rain, and very slippery clay mud on the trail slowed us down and made our footing very sketchy for the entire day. I grumbled and cussed about the conditions, but again Dana kept that positive spirit and really got me through the rest of the afternoon until we set up camp after a personal-best 18.7 mile day. We were now over a half day ahead of schedule and excited about possibly finishing early. Yet again, we both slept but it was somewhat broken up here and there.

Day 4 – February 16, 2018

Distance: 15.9 miles

Our final day began with no rain.  At this point, we only had 15.9 miles left to get to Kearny, AZ for our resupply and an awaiting motel reservation. We would actually be shaving off an entire day of our agenda if we could push through today at a good pace. We had our biggest climb of the trip thus far ahead of us, so we set off at first light. Fortunately for us, the rain had let up all night and we only encountered a few light showers through the high point of the rest of passage 15. Ripsey Wash provided us with a great place to take a lunch break before the final climb and ascent into town. These last few miles would take us over the high point of all 3 passages, following a ridgeline of the Tortilla Mountains above Kearny.  We made it into Kearny with the last of our patience, looking forward to hot showers and putting on dry gear so we could get some dinner at the highly recommended Old Time Pizza just down the street from the General Kearny Inn.

Day 5 – February 17, 2018

Distance: 0.0 miles

67.9 miles in just 4 days with full packs was a new record pace for me, especially considering 30 hours of literally non-stop rain in the middle 2 days of the trip.  We decided to take a zero day in Kearny after all, allowing us to wash some clothes and hang our gear to dry on the upstairs railing of the General Kearny Inn.  Breakfast that morning was shared with James Simmons, steward for passage 16a, and we also ran into Half Ration and Greenpeace again at the Whistle Stop restaurant attached to the GKI. Great talking with them while the power was out all across town!  They had luckily scored a hot breakfast before the power went down, but we were only able to get the last of the warm coffee.  Of course as we were leaving, the power came back on but they had already sent most of the employees home for the day, so James took us across town to the West End Cafe where we had a killer hot breakfast.

Now for the bad news…

While in Kearny on our zero, we were closely monitoring the upcoming weather for our remaining 2 passages – 16 and 17. Monday’s weather forecasted 25mph winds in the town of Kearny with steady rain all day, and gusts of wind up to 40mph. Snow was also expected at the 4000′ elevations, which were what we would be climbing into as we ascended into the Gila Canyon. After weighing out the pros and cons of continuing in such conditions, we both agreed that conditions would have been too risky for us to continue.

We will be back later this year to conquer passages 16 and 17, and hopefully more together. Hiking with Dana was a true pleasure. He has completed the entire Pacific Crest Trail, and I was very humbled by his fitness, attitude and backpacking experience. It was an honor to hike with him and I can only hope that he will allow me to join him on some of his future adventures.

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